Discovering the Christmas markets

The most famous markets, as everyone knows, are in the major towns such as Merano, Bolzano, Brunico, and Bressanone. These markets amaze visitors each year with their liveliness, filling squares and historic centers with the fragrances and joy of the most anticipated holiday of the year. There are also more intimate markets in small villages that transform them into miniature nativity scenes. Here, you can chat quietly among the stalls and sip mulled wine, feeling at home in a place perfectly suited for Christmas and a human scale, almost secret.

Have you ever heard of Terento, the sunniest village in South Tyrol? In winter, the sun shines from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., while in summer, it lingers until 8 p.m. The sunny climate of Terento, located at 1,210 meters above sea level with 2,000 hours of sunshine annually, is reflected in the sunny disposition of its 1,800 residents, who welcome visitors with a smile. In the village’s small square, in front of the church, there’s an old fountain and a large tree inviting you to stop. It looks like a movie set.

During Christmas, the special Advent atmosphere here becomes irresistible. “Tearna Advent – Terento’s Advent” is the highlight of this season: locals aim to share their rural Christmas traditions and culture with children, families, and guests. The traditionally decorated village, in addition to its Christmas market, offers surprises: cookie baking in the community house, a mini zoo, and artisans near the playground showcasing handmade masterpieces.

From the village center, a dimly lit path with torches leads to the Stockner Waldile forest, where a nativity scene and traditional huts offer local specialties and lovingly crafted items. A bonfire welcomes families: around it, fairy tales are told, and imagination takes flight as if riding Santa’s sleigh. Choirs and wind bands fill the air with Christmas music, and joy can be felt in every corner of Terento.

Here, you can taste dishes such as cabbage soup, Bluitnudel, gray cheese soup, Tirschtlan, sweet Ziachkropfn and Kirschtakropfn, and buckwheat sweet pancakes—typical recipes that warm the heart.

Once considered the granary of** Val Pusteria**, Terento’s sunny climate fostered cereal farming. The mills along the Terento stream ground the grain directly, offering a zero-mile production chain. A pleasant 30-minute winter walk among spruce trees leads to the ancient mills, passing by scenic earth pyramids. The silence, broken only by birdsong, makes the snow-dusted pyramids look like open-air sculptures.

In Val Gardena, the Ortisei Christmas Market, known as the Christmas Village, celebrates its 10th anniversary this year. This picturesque capital of Val Gardena transforms into a winter fairy tale with delicious sweets, traditional hot dishes, fine liquors, and South Tyrolean wines. The Lodenlounges, cozy gastronomic huts, invite visitors to savor local products in a romantic festive atmosphere.

If Ortisei stands for elegance, Selva represents skiing and its surrounding high mountains. The Mountain Christmasmarket, with its 350-meter-long strip of lights adorned with small wooden gondola cabins, brings the ski slopes to the village streets in spirit.

Not far from Lana, Merano attracts wellness enthusiasts, snow lovers, and market-goers. Merano’s Christmas markets reflect the city’s charm, set among the Alps where the peaks frame the urban heart, creating a winter atmosphere that draws all who wish to celebrate Advent. Along the Passirio River and its promenade, visitors find unique South Tyrolean crafts and delicious regional dishes featuring organic and local ingredients.

Even here, the Krampus appear—terrifying yet playful figures who roam the markets on select days. This tradition, rooted in ancient times, began when farmers feared demons and spirits during long winter nights. They carved frightening wooden masks and tied on bells to ward off evil presences—a custom preserved over the centuries.

Don’t miss a visit to the Pur Südtirol shop, offering exclusively South Tyrolean products, including those from the renowned Gallo Rosso brand.

If you’re longing for the mountains but also milder temperatures, where apple trees, cherry blossoms, orchids, and palms coexist with chestnuts, larches, and beeches, Lana in South Tyrol is an exceptional destination. Advent here is special: thousands of lights illuminate buildings, streets, and trees; stores stay open for Christmas shopping; and the Polvere di Stelle market in the Capuchin Garden features a stunning new attraction this year: a massive handmade Lumagica light installation shaped like a Christmas ornament that visitors can step into. Positioned near the sheep pen, this glowing Christmas ball enhances the enchanting, magical atmosphere of Polvere di Stelle.

Don’t miss the Krampus parade on December 5 at 5 p.m., when these monstrous figures, servants of Saint Nicholas, hunt down those who’ve misbehaved.

Where to Stay

Besides numerous hotels with luxurious spas and gourmet restaurants, South Tyrol offers a unique accommodation option: masi—farms and agritourisms scattered throughout the region. Gallo Rosso is a brand that, since 1999, has promoted and supported around 1,600 agritourisms belonging to the South Tyrolean Farmers’ Union (Südtiroler Bauernbund). The association aims to bring people closer to the South Tyrolean farming lifestyle.

Staying in a maso means getting to know the host family and experiencing traditional rural life firsthand.

Alessandra Fusè

Ph: Alex Filz