In the northeastern part of Sardinia, Berchidda is a village with a clear winemaking vocation that also hosts a dedicated Museum.
It is in the inland of this part of the island that the Tenute Altavera winery has its roots, in a countryside full of colors, scents, and nature. It is here that the decision was made to purchase land and pursue the dream of winemaking. This** family-run and recently established company** has a clear goal: to cultivate organically and produce the best Vermentino and Cannonau in the area. Valentina Pippobello, an integral part of this project, shares how ideas became reality and how the future could be even brighter than the present.
How did the story of Tenute Altavera begin? In 2016, my father bought a piece of land in Berchidda to turn it into a farm. The goal was to create a vineyard and produce wine. Initially, the company was supposed to be called Altanera due to the eagles that nest here, but unfortunately, the name was already registered, so we opted for Altavera, in honor of my grandmother’s name. From there, we began the work and planted over a hectare of Vermentino vineyard, along with some fruit trees. In 2018, we planted the second vineyard with Cannonau, Merlot, and Sangiovese. We also have 2 hectares of olive groves, although they are not yet in production. In 2020, the Vermentino vineyard began producing, and we had our first harvest: we bottled the wine, and the adventure began. None of us in the family had ever done this kind of work before, so we had to learn everything from scratch.
What is the Gallura territory like, where your wine is produced? It is primarily clay soil mixed with sand, making it very rich. Our land is hilly and flat, and this is where the Vermentino grows, full of flavors and aromas derived from the soil. Additionally, the vineyard is south-facing, receiving plenty of sunlight but also lots of wind, especially the mistral wind, which is predominant in our area and creates a perfect climate for this wine. Even though we are 300 meters above sea level, there are significant temperature variations and high humidity. This combination of sunlight exposure and mistral wind ensures that our vineyards are not affected by diseases. So, the clay soil, the mistral wind, and the sun are key and essential components for the success of our wines.
Berchidda is famous for its fine Vermentino, but also for its beautiful Wine Museum. There are many wineries in the area specializing in Vermentino production. Yet, each one manages to bring out a distinctive characteristic beyond the standard qualities: wines that are very fruity, with hints of aromatic herbs. For example, our wine stands out because it recalls the flavor of white-fleshed fruits like peach. Every year, as the vineyard matures, we are able to bring out new aromas and flavors in the wine: initially, we could identify pineapple, and now we find melon and the aforementioned white peach. There’s also a hint of bitter almond. What’s important is witnessing an evolution. Certainly, Vermentino is the most produced wine variety, but we also know that Cannonau is one of the most widely cultivated grape varieties in Sardinia.
One of your mottos as a company is the passion for the land. It’s no coincidence that you chose organic methods to produce wine. It was a long journey because following organic practices is not easy. It was certainly one of the goals we had from the very beginning. We use neither chemical products nor sulfites, and only minimal copper-based treatments that are allowed in organic farming.
Was it easier or harder to choose organic methods in terms of quality and marketability? The only challenges we faced were bureaucratic. It’s a choice that has made things easier for us right from the start, and the market demand for organic products is very high. Starting this year, we will finally be able to include the “organic” label on our wine bottles, which will be a big boost for us.
Is this more of a personal philosophy, or is it widely adopted in your region? Organic farming is a widely used approach because it is seen as an added value.
Let’s talk about your wines: what are their characteristics? For now, we only produce two wines: Donnavera, our Vermentino di Gallura DOCG, which is dedicated to our grandmother. Production began in 2020, and its distinctive characteristics, as previously mentioned, include hints of aromatic herbs like sage. The other wine is a blend of Cannonau, Merlot, and Sangiovese called Don Serafino, dedicated to our grandfather. Vera and Serafino are our flagship products! Both wines are vinified in stainless steel, which keeps even the red wine fresh. What I find very interesting about this red wine is that the Merlot component gives it a smoky aftertaste, almost as if it had been aged in oak barrels. Additionally, the red wine undergoes natural fermentation without the addition of sulfites, while the Vermentino does require sulfites.
Who are your customers?
We have many restaurateurs as clients, scattered across Porto Cervo, San Pantaleo, and Olbia. We are working hard to also attract private customers, focusing on creating a website and adding an e-shop for online sales. It’s also not uncommon for us to receive calls from enthusiasts who have tasted our wine and want us to ship it to them.
Will 2025 see you developing new products or focusing more on your existing ones? To begin with, we’ll plant two more hectares of vineyard, and we’re evaluating which grape varieties to use. We also have another hectare of land that we plan to graft with native grape varieties. In addition, we’d like to diversify with sparkling wines, perhaps a rosé. We’re also considering building small apartments to host visitors who want to enjoy nature, as our farm is located in open countryside. Another project we’re excited about is creating a horse club where guests can go for rides through the woods. And, of course, building our own winery to handle vinification on-site. Our main goal is to increase our visibility and be appreciated by as many people as possible. I hope for good results so that I can dedicate myself fully to running this business. I’ve even taken a sommelier course to prepare for the certification exam—I’m realizing that in this field, there’s always something new to learn!
Berchidda has gained recognition thanks to a very famous fellow citizen, jazz trumpeter Paolo Fresu.Time in Jazz is an annual event that has brought a lot of popularity to Berchidda. The festival attracts many tourists, and all the wineries in the area are involved in wine tastings and culinary pairings. It’s truly a beautiful village, where there’s a strong sense of community and collaboration: everyone is committed to highlighting the importance of wine.
From the perspective of climate change, is it something you fear? Yes, because it’s becoming more noticeable every year. In 2024, our vineyard suffered a bit from the heat, and as a result, so did the grapes. We actually harvested 20 quintals less than usual. We’re hopeful that the prediction of lower quantity equaling higher quality proves to be true. But it’s possible that in the coming years we’ll need to take action. I’ve noticed some vineyards are starting to plant with a different orientation for the rows, while others are opting to cover the vines for protection.
What’s a dream you’d like to make come true in 2025? To participate in an event where my wine is evaluated and judged with an excellent score!
Donal Cantonetti
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